venerdì 28 gennaio 2011

The Golden Age of Couture

       PARIS - LONDON  1947 -1957

The launch of Christian Dior's New Look in 1947 marked the beginning of a momentous decade in fashion history, one that Dior himself called the 'golden age'. Celebrating the end of war and the birth of a new era, it set a standard for dressmaking and high fashion that has rarely been surpassed.
In Paris, couture houses such as Balenciaga, Balmain and Fath attracted worldwide attention for elegance and glamour. London was renowned for formal state gowns by court dressmakers and impeccable tailoring by designers like Hardy Amies.
The production of couture was important to the prestige and economy of both France and Britain. While traditionally catering for wealthy private clients, the couture houses also sought new markets. As the decade progressed, they created perfumes, opened boutiques and licensed their designs to foreign manufacturers. By the late 1950s, the leading couture houses had become global brands.

“The Golden Age of Couture celebrates a momentous decade in fashion history that began with the launch of Christian Dior’s famous New Look in 1947 and ended with his death in 1957.  It was Dior himself who christened this era fashion’s ‘golden age’, a period when haute couture thrived and Paris enjoyed renown worldwide for the luxurious creations of designers such as Cristóbal Balenciaga, Pierre Balmain and Hubert de Givenchy.  While never competing with Paris in terms of glamour, London has proved itself a burgeoning fashion capital, boasting Savile Row, the undisputed home of bespoke tailoring, and prominent couturiers such as Charles Creed, Hardy Amies and Norman Hartnell, who dressed debutantes, aristocrats and the royal family.”

‘Bar’ suit by Christian Dior, modelled by Renee.  Photograph by Willy Maywald, 1955.

“The New Look required a complete change of accessories.  Neat hairstyles replaced the flowing hair and complex millinery of the war years.  Shoes changed from clumpy wedges to slim, elegant courts with narrow toes and high heels supported by steel rods.”

Shoe by Roger Vivier for Christian Dior, 1954.

“Although Dior went on to design many other important collections, the New Look caught the public imagination, and the long, full-skirted ballerina look continued to be a part of the vocabulary for popular fashions right up to the 1960s.”

                                                     Evening dress by Hardy Amies, satin, c. 1950.
                                    Evening dress by Victor Stiebel at Jacqmar, embroidered silk satin, 1950s.

Evening gown by Cristóbal Balenciaga modelled by Dovima. Harper’s Bazaar (British edition), December 1950. Photograph by Richard Avedon.

“Superb examples of evening gowns, cocktail dresses and tailored suits from the V&A’s collection are shown alongside fashion illustration and evocative photographs by the likes of Richard Avedon, Cecil Beaton and Irving Penn.”

‘Ecarlate’ cocktail dress by Christian Dior. Red silk grosgrain, Autumn/Winter 1955-6.

Coat by Cristóbal Balenciaga, modelled by Lisa Fonssagrives. Vogue French edition, 1950. Photograph by Irving Penn.

Evening dress by Madame Grés, modelled by Sunny Hartnett, Le Touquet, France, 1954. Harper’s Bazaar American Edition, September 1954. Photograph by Richard Avedon.

This book was “published to accompany a major V&A exhibition” and “pays tribute to the impeccable workmanship and creative flair behind some of the most famous couture styles of all time.”

‘Zemire’ modelled by Dior house model Renee. Paris, 1954. Photograph by Regina Relang.

"The Golden Age of Couture"
 celebra un decennio di grande importanza nella storia  della moda,che ha avuto inizio con il lancio del famoso New Look di Christian Dior's nel 1947 e che si concluse con la sua morte nel 1957. 
Dior stesso battezzò quest'epoca della moda come "L'età dell'oro", un periodo dove a Parigi prosperava l'haute couture, designer come Cristobal Balenciaga,Pierre Balmain e Hubert de Givenchy disegnavano e creavano
il lusso,godendo di fama in tutto il mondo.
 Nello stesso periodo,anche se mai in competizione con Parigi
in termini di glamour,Londra si dimostra una capitale fiorente per la moda, sopratutto a livello sartoriale,dove nomi come Savile Row sono la patria indiscussa della sartoria su misura e stilisti di spicco come
Charles Creed,Hardy Amies e Norman Hartnell sono coloro che vestono debuttanti,aristocratici,nonchè la Famiglia Reale inglese."

Questo libro è stato pubblicato per rendere omaggio alla lavorazione 
impeccabile ed estro creativo di alcuni degli stilisti più famosi di
tutti i tempi.

The Parisienne.

12 commenti:

  1. I love this post and I need that book to build my archive. I already have a fashion designer dictionary that covers Christian Dior and Cristóbal Balenciaga but this book seems to go more in-def.

  2. Great post, I am now following you via Google Friend!
    ♥ Noemi

  3. Ma avevano sul serio quei vitini o è un effetto ottico in contrapposizione con la gonna???
    Mi piacciono questi post in bianco e nero!

  4. @C0utureJunkie:Thank you, and yes if think this book is like a "must have"for the people that love the history of Haute Couture.
    @Noemi: thank you very much.
    it's a pleasure have you as a new follower!
    @App.Ila: Avevano sul serio quella vita cosi fine,certo aiutata anche dagli
    abiti che indossavano!

  5. One of the best posts I've read in a while. Great topic! Great commentary! LOVES!

  6. @Kholà thank you very much for your kind words...
    I really appreciate your comment!

  7. Ciao, bel post, scritto bene.
    niente a che vedere con le solite fashion bloggers ;)

    ti seguirò!

  8. @the sHopping sTylist: Grazie per le tue parole e felice di averti qui!

  9. Super Post! This is what i would like to read always
    in a fashion blogs...

  10. Grazie a te per il commento sul mio Blog, ti ho risposto anche lì!

    a presto

  11. I have read and look all through this book and i loved everything about it!!!!!


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